the author of "square" photos - Maxim Sologub
To get risk for other members I didn't agreed.
- I enjoyed enough of this adventure. Drank tea at "three hundred", it's time for descent to the pampases.
-Will wait a bit more. We should try to go to the top, - said me.
- For any movements in addition to the hunger strike - I joke as real militar.
However, the fool could not. The body and the subconscious worked without the participation of the brain. They demanded to vent accumulated for the year potential. All crazy heavy workout, all focused on the winter expedition to K2... After it was canceled I was never able to find a balance. On a rocky career threw for car floor-thousand miles on the highway "don".
After four days of waiting, the weather improved. The wind was knocked down not immediately at the exit, but let a few steps away. So we're on the decision Eugene even went for acclimatization. Stood up to a height of 4500 meters, wandered in a kind of fog, looked at Eugene confident stomp at the point of attack".
And then the long warm in the house next to the stove, the benefit was firewood. Common efforts have collected chips around.
That evening the commander Anton Kravchenko strangely looked at me and said on the subject that someone can try tomorrow to go to the top.
- As to the top? - did not believe me.
- Yeah, go with Ilya, you're the fool, "right" - the Chief said. - Takes the search for the path on our next day. And we rest day take after acclimatization.
- And what to explore? - grinned Ilya. Trying to show the sailor's brutality. - I'm there six or seven ascents ascended. Yes and Eugene twenty times.
However, agreed to form the company. Without any doubt. My distrust vanished after a rapid decision on the storm "for two". Responsibility has disappeared. As if from the very beginning I expected this command. The smell of adventure. In winter.
- Don't fall down to the Professor's crevassel, matter - of-factly punished Eugene. Once on the slope of the cleft in the ice vanished important scientist. And since then, the name stuck to this pit.
Usually, in summer, climbers are starting for the sturm just after midnight. However, to wander through the darkness I didn't want to, because I didn't know the way, yeah in the light and psychologically warmer.
When at 04:00, Ilya had closed the door behind him, managed to avoid jealousy continued to rhythmically sniffer comrades. Wanted battle. And Yes we will be rewarded!
Were tracked alternately. The snow was not more than twenty centimeters below the water line", says the sailor, however, power was selected. To my surprise, coming forward Ilya showed indecent "wide tread. His tracks ran in different directions, and moving forward it is compensated by the frequency step. "This boat!" - slapped myself on the forehead. The guy is still moving by the deck of ship.
Dawn came at the bottom of the cliffs Lentz. To understand how we here bore he couldn't find any cracks, it was difficult. Some curve brought us to the Bastion. The hope that the wind under the rocks blows weaker, vanished with the wind. The rope it was not needed, and rizvanovici, we rushed up. However, the sailor began to lag behind.
- Work, demobilizated! - I tried to cheer up mate.
- Freeze something, and my head hurts, " he said laughing.
After a couple of hours Ilya began to bother my stomach and somewhere in the middle Lenz rocks he finally passed. On site, there was more than moved. Taking a breath. With full optimism in the eyes and words... however, to go faster, he could not.
- Twisted me - divorced guy hands.
So we can't do this anywhere, expressed I thought. - Before dark to go down will not work.
In the end, I had to break away. Strictly prohibited ordered Elijah to not stop, and had not turned aside from the trail, I headed to the sea of clouds over the mountain mist. And-and-and... "PA tundra, PA zheleznoy garage, where mizza poised of Vorkuta-Leningrad!" Not presenting local distances and heights, I plowed hard. The path was simple and logical. Onward and upward. Somewhere in the clouds, on the cone of an ancient volcano.
Visibility was improved. But I restrained myself: "Not serivice, you moron! SanSanych Mikhailov on this mountain was lost. Lutokhin the leg broke off, and how many people perished, not calculating forces, relying on luck." Therefore, moved extremely concentrated, greedily catching details of terrain and weather. Ready at any time falling away from this trap.
On the "collar" was a smell of sulfur. This smell was coming from the Underworld. Recalled previous climbing the volcanoes of Klyuchevskaya, Etna, Lanzarote. Breaking away from the cliffs Lenz, I longingly saw this mess of fog and snowdrift lost sight of the real landmark.
However, instead of ahead of them they saw the stone... then next to it is another. And I long... incredibly long toiled to them. And they did not close in razradjena the air... then abruptly jump forward. Come!
It turned out to be another "mental game" of Elbrus. Around the bend appeared the next bend. Even higher. Behind it is another. And then I ran around the edge of the crater, trying to understand where the real top. Had to visit all four or five puparia on the perimeter.
Incredibly cruel piercing wind ruffled me. However, I happily saw that he carries away so frightened me the fog. Even peeking West summit.
Then the most important was to find Ilia. So I ran up and down. And under the "collar" Elbrus under a rock in a wind-protected place saw his bright red sholders of jacket.
It is the father that works at the local branch of the emergencies Ministry gave the guy on the ascent. Viva Rescuers!
The next day, trying to climb to the top, the second group turned because of the freezing cold. Froze inside out, so even seasoned Eugene said on rocks Lenz - without him. Everyone got a little frosbites.
And then, under the sun, all who boasted that he pomarose. And Anton with Eugene we knocked down. So in the dark, beating several avalanche slopes, to purchase the tract Gil-su.
Here the local East hospitable fellow Arsen ancient Keeper (forgot the name of the old man) fed us, and put to bed in one of the rooms.
When we're in the car rolled over "stalls", and over their grey bending it seemed to snow-white cone of mount Elbrus - I realized that I had long dreamed about this climb. Not Karakorum, but still! Tranquil access of a new asphalt road, a huge reserve of accumulated forces, a little taste of adventure. That's why it was here. And now with a clear conscience umtimate back.
On the way through the city of Nevinnomyssk managed to freshen up family ties. Forty years ago I was born here, then our family moved to Sakhalin. And uncle Peter, aunt Alla lived in the southern foothills. About after a crazy number of years early in the morning I went to visit them for twenty minutes. Thanks guys Anton, Roman and Maxim that waited in the car on the street, not left without me.
Managed to drink a Cup of coffee and eat a couple of Goodies that had thoughtfully prepared aunt. Fortunately, their home was located on the Northern outskirts of Nevinnomyssk - near the highway. I remember as a child kids we went to fight with those privilegirovanniy who lived in this "Chinese wall" is a wall to wall.
Mr. Peter Reva - painter. I remembered one of his paintings that my parents brought from the Caucasus. Now I found out that my second cousin Irina Reva also enjoys painting. This is our creative family :)
After a few weeks I learned that on the same day, January 08, 2015 on the West summit of Elbrus rose a great climber, my old friend, Boris Korshunov. One of his entire group. The Great Man and here was stronger then me - Western peak has above the East at 21 meters.
здесь и дальше автор "квадратных" фотографий - Максим СологубРисковать другими я не хотел.
- Мне хватит и такого приключения. Попили чайку на "три семьсот", пора в пампасы.
- Подождем еще немного. Надо попытаться сходить на вершину, - отвечали мне.
- За любой кипиж кроме голодовки, - отшучивался я по-прапорщицки.
на скальные карьеры кидался, то за руль машины пол-тыщи километров по трассе "Дон".
четыре дня ожидания погода улучшилась. Ветром не сбивало с ног сразу у выхода - получалось отойти на несколько шагов. Так что мы по решению Евгения даже сходили на акклиматизацию. Выдержали до высоты 4500 метров, бродили в каком-то тумане, смотрели на Женькину уверенную поступь "на острие атаки".
В этот вечер начальник экспедиции Антон Кравченко как-то странно поглядел на меня, и выразился на тему, что желающие могут попробовать завтра сходить на вершину.
- Как на вершину? - не поверил я.
- Ну да, идите с Ильей, вы самые шустрые, - прямо сказал Шеф. - Разведаете путь-дорожку для нашего следующего дня. А мы день отдыха возьмем после акклиматизации.
Однако, согласился составить компанию. Без всяких сомнений. Мое недоверие испарилось после резкого решения о штурме "для двоих". Ответственность исчезла. Как буд-то я с самого начала ждал этой команды. Запахло авантюрой. Зимней.
Обычно, летом выходят на штурм сразу после полуночи. Однако, блуждать по темноте я не хотел, потому что не знал пути, да при свете и психологически теплей.
Тропили поочередно. Снег был не больше двадцати сантиметров, "ниже ватер-линии", как выразился матрос, однако, силы отбирал. К моему удивлению, выходя вперед Илья демонстрировал неприлично "широкую" поступь. Его следы разбегались в разные стороны, и движение вперед он компенсировал частотой шага. "Это же карабельная!" - хлопнул я себя по лбу. Парень до сих пор передвигался как по палубе.
- Мерзну что-то, и голова болит, - смеялся он.
- Скрутило меня, - развел парень руками.
- Так мы не успеем никуда, - выразил я мысль. - До темноты спуститься не получится.
Лутохин на ровном месте ногу отломил, а сколько еще народу сгинуло, не рассчитав сил, понадеявшись на удачу." Поэтому, шагал предельно сконцентрированный, хищно ловя детали рельефа и погоды. Готовый в любой момент юркнуть прочь из этой ловушки.
недель я узнал, что в тот же день 08 января 2015 года на Западную вершину Эльбруса поднялся замечательный альпинист, мой давний друг Борис Степанович Коршунов. Один из всей своей группы. Великий и здесь оказался сильней меня - западная вершина выше восточной на 21 метр.