Today Simone and me went to normal Camp 1 of classical way. There were our backpaks, leaving four days ago. We had idea to discover safety turn around low part of Kinshifer couloir.
Happened luckily that we went easy till the middle of glacier, and by broad zigzag reached middle – away from seracs and avalanches line. In my humble opinion is very well now, and possible to approach to Camp 1 (our) on 5250 without dangerous now.
Returning to Base Camp we told “goodbye” for three polish people. They went down to valley – their expedition is over. But I still dream to ascent on Nanga-Parbat, health and feeling let to hope to success.
-----------------------------------------------------------And something else, that make me very happy. I congradulate my friends Simone and Cory!
http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/2012_golden_piton_awards/
И кое-что еще, что делает меня счастливым. Поздравляю своих друзей Симоне и Кори!
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Сегодня Симоне и я сходили в общепринятый Лагерь 1 на классическом маршруте. Там лежали наши рюкзаки, оставленные четыре дня назад. К тому же, была идея найти безопасный обход нижней части кулуара Киншофера. Получилось так, что мы удачно «вильнули» на ледник, и широким зигзагом вышли на его середину – подальше от возможной линии падения лавин и сераков. На мой взгляд, получилось очень хорошо, и теперь можно безопасно пройти в Лагерь 1 (наш) на высоте 5250 метров.Вернувшись в Базу, попрощались с поляками. Они втроем ушли вниз по долине – их экспедиция завершена. А я мечтаю залезть на Нанга-Парбат, здоровье и настроение позволяют надеяться на успех.
Денис Викторович, я в вас верю :)
ReplyDeleteDear Simone and Denis,
ReplyDeleteI have been watching your progress from the begining. I have sent my wishes after your press conference with Messner. To be honest, I was worry about your safe on Kinshofer route without the fixed rope. I remember this "path" because today is 15th anniversary of my summit attack. The next days we were able to reach the foot of Diamir Face. I can not imagine doing it without fixed ropes.
You have not good time during the expedition, especially you have lost your friends...
The Nanga Parbat gave us the respect lesson too. We have lost the higher camps three times,... my partner and me got frostbites.
Good luck on your new route! Be carefull. I hope you will do IT!
Zbigniew Trzmiel,
polish team 1996-97