The Final. Завершение.

I see many speculations now, people are talking behind me... "bla-bla-bla" for them self personal promoution. Look around, please, how many liars are - from movimakers till mountaineers. And journalists present it to public as an ultimate truth. But most of it is not correct. Is possible to bielive for Boguslaw Magrel certainly because he knows me better. And now I prefer to write for clear meanings.

I don't like something definitive. As to loose equipnemt during the ascent. In opposite - I construct everything changeble. Tactic, tecnic, style... Just goal shall be constant. In this reason I can be in Himalayas once or twice more. As example - to bit record of Huanito Oairzabal - to arrive under classical route of Cho-Oyu and do it 4 times in season. Why not? Is quite safety and pelasant. But extremal ascents as new routes and winter tops in Himalayas I would like to stop. Just one option - in case my wife Maria Jose Cardell will ask me about help for new route in Alpine style. In this reason I will try to assist her.

Decision to stop mountaineering was before Broad peak 2020 attempt, of course. Even we joked with Don and Lotta, that is my last expedition - I calculated days (45, 30, 20...) till the end of my hi-alitude carrierre. But in any case (or even strongly) I did fight a lot, did mostly job on the route. You may to see three summit attempts during the expedition even in solo (twice) when Don Boiwe was collapsed.
I spend so many years in extreme alpinism, that is enough. I realised my ambitions, and don't see what I can do more...

About quolity? As a "shine on my crasy dimond" opened five new routes in alpine style over 8000m . As a kind of competitions won speedascents and bit records from 4000 to 8000 m. Did two winter ascents on 8000 m. Climbed incradible technical routes on rocky bastions 2000-7000 m around the planet as Kusz-Kaya, Ushba, Pobedy, Kali-Himal. I satisfate enough.

What about quontity? Age is the poblem alwais for everyone. I am not able to do now something that can to realise in 30 years. Important is to understand it, and don't try to be in Squirrell Sircle.
I was working as a coach since 14 years, and completed strong teams. But organizers and members some times don't apresciate efforts. For free, now - often means for nothing.
Responsibility is the reason also. My wife, kids and parents need attention, support. Are good words - good alpinist means alive alpinist. I would like to dedicate life for my dear persons.

I am tired to loose a time. Is too often happen - I spend lot of trainings without contacts with family and friends, participate in expedition 2-3 months... but partners are as a ballast. As Simone some times, as mostly of Polish team in 2018, as Don in last winter. To be good person is OK, but is not enoiugh to get summit. I stopped so many times because of irresponsibility of other people! And prefer to keep my time for different actions now.

I don't like mountains. Especially that lost many friends there. I like actions and am free to choose my mode of freedom. For the life now - work, kids, hobby, pleasure. As for everyone of us. For me - same. Plus sportive rock-climbing. Extremally but safety. Hope to bit 8a level in next years.

About ten people I'd rescued. But I supported some people also from frostbies, traumas. And was rescuing three times - this - is important, thanks to my friends and partners. But let's to see different. For example - Ambulance daily work help for hundereds of us. Medical assistance is in normal life for many people who are doing our life better, imroove Wroclaw and Ostrow. Me and other mountaineers just realize our sportive egoistical ambitions.

In case of next K2 attempt I need to see options. To spend three months in company of loosers, liars, week lasy people I don't like again. Team completed three real athletes - Marcin, Adam, Rafal and one young Maciej. But against of swamp of other members, organisation and leadership was possible to do nothing. Last years we have to see almost zero in REAL POLISH style on hi-altitude (I respect actions of Bargel, but is different than sportive alpinism). Many reports, many excuses, but is weekness in reality. Many words about heroical past in acievemnts of Czichy, Kukuczka, Kurtika and other... But modern generation is not enough for sport in hi-altitude. Last examples? Piotr Morawski WINTER ascent to Shishapangma, my New route on G2 in alpine style. In case is forgotten something - excuse me, please?

I don't press anyone to do extremal ascents over 8000, but like to see the truth. And hope it will be soon. Polish team have good chanses to conquest Broad, G1 and K2 in winter. New routes on West face of Annapurna, Nord face of Kanchenjunga. Speedascents on Broad and Cho-Oyu are waiting for real mountaineers. It will be our own music in Himalayas and Karakorum.