DENIS URUBKO curriculum

DENIS  URUBKO

One of the best actual mountaineers of the World. Still on the podium since 21 year as a well known adventurer. Most important achievements spend on hi-alititude level above 6000 m. Did many mystical incredible ascents. Real athlete breaking limits of imagination in Himalayas and Karakorum.

Was awarded for many sportive and humanely actions during the career. Medial person with specific honour. Writer and presenter in love of public abroad Russia, Poland Spain and Italy.

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Piolet d’Or of World (FRA) 2009

Piolet d’Or of Asia (KOR) 2006, 2009, 2011-12

Golden Piton (USA) 2011

Eiger Award (SWS) 2009

Himalayan Crown - all 8000-m peaks of world without oxygen in 9 years.

“Snow Leopard” – had climbing on the 5 “seven-thousand” peaks of  CIS (USSR), - in 42 days.

Five new routes to 8000-m peaks in Alpine style.

Two winter new ascents on 8000-m peaks.

Champion of World, CIS, Kazakhstan, Kirgizstan, Spanish and USA alpinism.

Best sportsman of Kazakhstan in 2009

Champion and records of speed-ascents competitions.

Coach of mountaineering team 2002-2012, 2016-2018.

Around hundred climbs of Top quality.

21 climbs on “six thousands” peaks, 25 on “seven thousands” peaks, 23 on “eight thousands” peaks.

14 books edited in Kazakhstan, Italy, Russia, Poland.

More than fifty difficult climbs SOLO.

Was born at 29 Julie 1973 y on the North Caucasus area in Russia. In mountains arrived with parents at first time. Involved by Tourist Club, participate in first easy ascents on the hills. At 14-years age immigrate to the Sakhalin island with parents, spend many travels in wild forest areas, getting the huge experience to survive. On 1990 took part of education in university in Vladivostok city. Meet some climbers, but still travel alone. Debuted in Kodar mountain system at summer 1991 the N face of 2600-mt peak.

Than spend many trips in Altai, Kamchatka, Tian-Shan and Pamir. In that years Denis has begun the official alpinism and started the sportive style in mountains. In Janiuary 1993 immigrate to Almaty, took a part in the mountaineering section of Central Sport Club of Army of Kazakhstan. Recruiting for two years.

Since eighteen years was military – from soldier till lieutenant in 2011. Lived in Almaty city at the Tian-Shan mountains bottom. Did ascents in different mountain regions, was growing under the help of L.Savina, D.Grekov, Y.Gorbunov.

After 2002 as coach supported the strong youth mountaineering team. Completed the best personal sportive ascents around the world. Participate in many international nominations, festivals. Published fourteen books by him self and with editors of Kazakhstan, Russia, Italy and Poland. Was dismissed out of Army from the Main Coach rank.

Professional sportsman, journalist free-lancer, writer, lector. Citizenship - Russia, Poland. Has live in Nembro (Italy), Zabkowice Slaskie (Poland), Ryazan (Russia), Sierra Nevada (Spain).

Married with Maria Jose Cardell Fernandez (Andalusia). Spend climbing, training and expeditions together. The couple is working for films, articles, presentations, books.